Into Cambodia...Siem Reap

April 4

Today we were awakened by a violent thunderstorm outside our hotel and that led to us being ready for an early morning wake up call.  We are heading out to Cambodia and have to be fed, packed and ready for the minibus at 7:45am.  We do all of the above and are ready to walk out when the driver beckons.  We follow him up Khaosan Road and then back down Khaosan Road, through some small alleyways and out the other side to streets we have never seen before.  We are soon picked up by a minivan and we all pile in along with a guy we meet named Song who is from Belgium and has been travelling now for 20 months.  It seems to take nearly forever to just get out of Bangkok, but we keep on trucking and soon are on a very bumpy highway.  We stop a couple times for snacks and potty breaks and arrive about 3 hours later at what looks like a pit stop on the side of the road.  We have been pre-warned about attempts to sell us visas into Cambodia at inflated prices so we are prepared when they ask us to get out of the bus and take a seat at a table.  They do the whole song and dance about expediting our visas, they can’t guarantee that the bus will wait for us if it takes us too long to get through customs, yada yada yada.  We keep repeating that we will get our visa at the border and so they pile us back into the minivan we have just unpacked from and we go about a quarter mile down the road to a stopping point where we are told to get our bags and start walking to the border.  Our bus driver takes a different route and says he will meet us on the other side.  We first get through Thai customs to depart the country and then approach the border with Cambodia.  We keep being told which way to turn and soon enough arrive at the customs’ house of Cambodia.  They are all very nice and totally efficient as we give them our filled out customs’ cards and some US cash and soon we have our Visas in hand.  We then go through immigration and out to a waiting area for our bus.  We all pile into a “Free Shuttle” bus and are driven about 15 minutes outside of town.  Once there, we again unpack our bags and it is suggested that we might want to spend a little more than our bus fare on a private taxi cab.  Once we learn that the bus, for which we have already paid, will take between 5-6 more hours, we conclude that the extra $30 is well worth it to cut our trip in half.  One problemo, we are five people and they are just fine with  us packing into a small sedan, be I don’t think my lap can stand 3 hours of Sam sitting on it, so….. We come up with an alternative.  We have a few others that arrived at the terminal at the same time as us and we agree to split up into two cars of four people each.  Annie and I are paired with a really nice couple from Adelaide, Australia.  They are the most interesting pair and are travelling for over two years.  This is not their first rodeo and they entertain us with tales of their many travel over the years….from two years spent in Japan to 6 months in China and a lot of other places in between.  We have a really nice conversation that makes the time go by that much faster.  Once we arrive in the town of Siem Reap, the driver has some trouble finding their hotel and even more finding ours.  We finally arrive at the Rithy Rine Angkor Hotel and are greeted by Paulie who has already settled into our rooms.  To the uninitiated, Cambodia appears like a dusty, dirty, impoverished place where bare-footed old women push impossibly heaving carts through the streets and very small children are desperate for a few coins for food.  Once you get past the shock of the shanty shacks and the grime that covers nearly every inch of the country, you discover some of the loveliest people on the planet.  We get unpacked and decide to default to eating at the hotel restaurant which turns out to be a wonderful idea.  Our meal is great and we are the only ones eating at the restaurant that is overlooking the infinity pool.  Our waiter is funny and keeps peeking at us from behind a plant to make sure we enjoy every bite.  After we are finished, he brings us a complimentary fruit plate. The hotel recalls a bygone era with its wide stairwell and its wood interiors.  Each of the rooms has its own balcony overlooking to the pool.  We are so pleased to be here and to settle in for what we hope will be a restful night.


Goodbye to friends....


April 3

Woke up somewhat early and had our usual yummy breakfast at the hotel.  We are thinking of going to the floating market today if we can get ourselves in gear.  Paulie and I stop by the travel agent at our hotel to book passage (a bus ride) to Siem Reap in Cambodia for the following morning.  The details of crossing into Cambodia from Thailand sound a bit daunting and we are all a little nervous since we have no idea what to expect.  We make up some time with our schooling and journaling.  In the mid afternoon, Paulie and I send off another package of stuff…..our backpacks are So much lighter now!!  Around 3:00, we are expecting a visit from Lee and Sarah who are in town just before leaving tomorrow for Nepal.  It will be great to have a last day of fun with them and make a point to get all practical matters out of the way before we meet up.  They arrive a wee bit early and we are happy to dispense with our errands.  We all sit around a bit and chat in the AC as it is steamy hot outside.  After an hour or so, we head off in search of eats…..first stop, Seven 11 for Fruit smoothies and (of course) mentos. We continue our ambling as we have requested that Sarah show us the way to her favorite vegan restaurant near Rambuttri.  We enjoy a really nice and quite cheap meal at Mr. Jim’s…Paulie has a red curry ($1) I have grilled chicken with salad ($1.50) and the kids have shakes and fresh coconut milk served in a severed coconut bowl ($.80).  Afterward, we walk around for a while, through the small alleys and passageways that are typical of Bangkok and we get to see the guesthouse where she and Lee stayed last time they were here….it even has a pool!  Eventually, we end up at a park beside the river that flows through Bangkok and enjoy visiting in the shade for quite a while.  At 6:00, some speakers start to blare out the music and a hoard of ladies begins their daily aerobic activity class.  Lee gets things going by joining in and soon the kids are out there too….it is hilarious!  They get a pretty good workout and as they cool down we are heading back toward our hotel.  We all try to put off the good-byes, but realize at about 8:00 that we all have an early morning and they are meeting up with other friends as well.  We vow to keep in touch and head up to our room for what we hope will be an early night.

April Fool's Day.....part II (aka April 2)


April 2
…….as the bus takes off, rocking from side to side, we settle into our seats and hunker down for the next ten to twelve hours….oh boy.  This is not our preferred form of travel. We tried without success to find an overnight train that would have offered us a flat surface on which we can lay our heads.  Unfortunately, they were all full and we are due back in Bangkok on April 2….so, here we are bumping down the road at a very fast rate of speed in a bus cabin with a bunch of seething Asians who are most unwelcoming to our intrusion into their little party.  Sadly, Sam soon realizes that he has left his itouch on the previous bus….we all mourn the loss, but as usual, Sam takes it like a man.  Meanwhile, as soon as the lights go out, we attempt to recline our seats only to be told by our lovely co-cabinmates that we are too far back….and thus begins a battle that shall play out over the entire night.  Paulie has so little room for his knees that Annie cannot recline in the least……since we care about his feelings, she is pretty much bolt upright all night until I exchange seats with her.  It is NOT possible to get comfortable when your limbs continue to go to sleep,  other people’s knees are thrust into your back and your head keeps rocking sideways at the very whiff of dozing off.  The bus eventually stops for a potty break and everyone gets off….we are able to stretch our legs and use the most foul bathroom of all time.  It is a squatter potty….enough said.  Back on the bus, the boys finally are able to drift off to sleep and then the next thing I know Hudson is up and confronting the man behind him asking him to “please stop kicking the back of his chair”.  Not sure if they guy finally obliges or not.  Suffice it to say, when we pull onto the side of Khaosan Road at 5:00am, we are less than rested.  It is quite interesting to see the city at this time of day.  Along the alleyway as we wander to our wonderful Khaosan Park Resort, we see people cooking up a storm in preparation of lunch.  They have these huge metal bowls and pots that are boiling away on small gas stoves.  We finally emerge onto Khaosan Road as the night begins to fade into day and lo and behold it is a rocking good time on the street.  People are awake, drinking, eating, getting massages, doing the Macarena, and stumbling around.  There are plenty of ladies/ladyboys  of the night         picking the last remnants off the pavement and leading them away.  We are too miserably tired to be amazed, but it is quite interesting upon reflection.  We make our way to the hotel, and set down our bags.  Afterward, we venture through the crowd to find discover there are no less than seven Seven-11’s on our street.  We pick one and purchase some Thai iced tea for those who like it.  I, on the other hand need a huge jolt of good old fashioned coffee and know just the Seven 11 for that.  We walk to it and I get two cups of coffee and some pastries for our hungry masses.  We return to the hotel and pretty much melt onto the sofas in the lobby. They offer us a fresh cooked breakfast and we enjoy the lovely ambiance of our reception area. . Sam and I seek out a nearby post office to inquire about shipping some items home.  They are not even open yet. Luckily, we are allowed to get into our room around 8:00.  We all set down our bags and flail our bodies onto the beds and don’t leave that spot until around 2:00 in the afternoon.  After we awaken, we get a little bite to eat and then return to the post office, but via a different route.  We end up finding a much better post office and get a box into which we can pack a lot of stuff. We return to the hotel, pack the box and then get is shipped in no time flat.  The day is pretty much shot as we are so exhausted, but we do manage to have a lovely meal of Indian food in an upstairs restaurant.  We get back home and hit the hay.


April Fool's Day.....part I


April 1 (Fools’ Day)….Part I

We wake up and the reality of having to get ourselves together and check out is upon us.  Paulie and I sneak out for coffee.  The kids opted to sleep in and we returned to our hotel with treats for the kids.  We put off until the last possible moment the departure from our lovely hotel room….in part because we don’t like the reception people and in part because our bus only leaves at 4pm and we are without a home until then.  Once packed and back at the reception area, the depressed and morose receptionist reluctantly agrees to allow us to store our bags in the lobby of the hotel while we go eat lunch.  We decide to go along the beach road, back to the end cove where we ate lunch a couple of days ago.  We make our way past all of the massage offers and food stands and arrive at “The Last CafĂ©” where we find a large table.  We seat ourselves and enjoy watching the monkeys and the beautiful surf while we have our meal.  Afterward, we debate the possibility of going for a swim and how we might get cleaned up before our long, arduous bus trip to Bangkok.  Sam and Hudson re-find the cute puppies and play with them for a good long while until we decide to go back to the hotel.  Sam, Annie and I decide that we would like to spend our remaining time by swimming and return to the lobby to change into our bathing suits.  Paulie and Hudson opt to spend the time in the AC of the hotel lobby and enjoy the free Wifi that goes along with it.  The three of us head off to the beach, find a nice sandy spot about half-way down the beach and get into the tepid waters.  We stay in the water, floating and enjoying ourselves for a couple of hours.  The water is strangely warm…almost the same temperature as the outside air and is quite condusive to remaining for hours on end.    We realize we have to get out eventually, and then we have the debate about getting our clothes wet and having to store them on our travels.  We opt to walk back to the hotel in our swimming suits after we sate our hunger with a fruit shake.  We have all three decided to try to secretly shower in the lobby bathroom without the crotchety old receptionist noticing or getting mad at us.  I am the first to attempt the sneaky clean up……all goes well, but I have to intermittently shut off the shower to avoid them hearing me in the reception area.  I emerge and then pass the baton to Annie.  As she is showering, Hudson says quite loudly “Is she taking a shower” to which I try to shush him up….unsuccessfully.  I try to turn the conversation by ignoring his questions and talking about what to do back in Bangkok.  After Annie comes out, Sam is last to try out the quickie shower.  At this point, I am sure the receptionist is one to us, but perhaps too jaded to care anymore.  Oh well, we all get clean and ready for our long trip north.  Shortly, the bus arrives and we board an open air truck for the short trip to Krabi where we will get onto a larger bus for Surat Thani and then switch again for the overnight trip to Bangkok.  We arrive as planned at a remote bus stop in Krabi and get our passes for Bangkok, grab an ice cream and meet a nice guy from Koln, Germany.  Soon, our bus allows us onto it and we end up on the second story….not really where we wanted to be, but what the heck.  Our trip is uneventful and we arrive in Surat Thani about 8pm.  We have just enough time to use the facilities and get some cold water before being herded onto a new bus heading for Bangkok.  We prefer to ride downstairs as these large two story busses tend to sway on the open road, but the downstairs cabin is about half full of Japanese guys who yell at us that they are all full when Hudson approaches……I storm into the cabin and let them know I am not having any of it.  We find the very front row is completely empty and we procure four seats together.  Paulie soon enters and asks for a seat beside one of these fine gentlemen.   We are soon underway…..the beginning of the second worst bus trip of my life (A shout out to my brother Mark who shared the most worstest bus ride of all time with me)…….end of part I

Last day in Ao Nang


March 31

Woke up to have early coffee with Sarah and Lee before their departure to Phuket.  We went to our same-same, not different hotel (The Veranda) restaurant for “real” coffee.  We have the best conversations with these two.  No one is looking forward to saying goodbye.  But, we are hopeful that we will see them again in Bangkok.  After coffee we give each other hugs and head back to the hotel to collect the boys for breakfast.  We go to the same-same, not different breakfast place and have omelettes, museli with yogurt and fruit and pancakes…..yum!  After breakfast, we get on our swim suits and head to the beach for a while.  Hudson opts to stay in the room for a little R&R.  We return to the room around 4:00 and then Annie, Hudson and I walk up the street to take some items for repair/alteration at a tailor’s shop.  We return to the hotel just in time for Paulie to go out to retrieve our laundry from the cleaners.  We receive the first of our “mento” moments courtesy of Lee and we strategize the funny images we can photograph to re-post.  We get straightened up and packed up a little before we walk  back the same-same, not different family restaurant.  We sat at the same table and had a really good dinner after all of our practice with the menu selections.  We meander slowly home among the night vendors and get back to our place in time to watch a little TV and drift off to sleep to the not-so-melodious, very loud and rambunctious bar scene outside our hotel.