Kapoho Tidal Pools & Hilo



We awaken refreshed and ready to see our neighborhood.  Although, we manage to only get out the door around 10:00 for what was supposed to be an early start.  We walk down the street to get to the Wai Opae Tidal pools.  These are areas that have been created by the lava that traps beautiful, tropical fish and where coral reefs have established themselves.  The ocean water replenishes the pools during high tide, so the water is alway circulating.  The snorkeling is amazing, but the water is cold. It takes a while for us to get a spot where we feel comfortable diving into the chilly water, but we soon find a perfect spot and go for it.  This is awesome.  I can't believe the variety of sea life here in this one spot.  Here are some of the fish we saw.The corals are awesome as well.  some very unusual shapes and colors.  After we dry off and walk back home, we all shower off because the Tidal Pools trap a lot of bacteria in them that is not fully washed off by the changing tides.  We get cleaned up and head into Hilo to see the famous farmers market on Saturday mornings.   This is a really cute town with nice shops that line the downtown on one side and the beautiful blue ocean on the other.  We walk around and check out the shops....the kids seem to latch onto a surf shop everywhere we go.  We continue onto the Farmer's Market and enjoy seeing some very unusual produce.  Many items are of an asian origin including huge ginger roots, sea beans, papaya, tons of local honey, purple potatoes, and of course macadamia nuts and kona coffee.  There were also jewelers and local crafts people.  We eat an enormous lunch at a Mexican restaurant and once we are stuffed walk around a little more before returning to our house to rest up.  We have the ambition of going out at 5:00 to drive a ways up the road where we hear that we can see the lava flows from the road.  When 5:00 arrives, we get into the car to go off on an adventure.  We quickly realize that we are in a little over our heads.  The drive is much longer than we thought and it is now pitch black as we are driving down the narrowest, darkest, windy back roads toward who know what.  We end up turning around and getting back to the house in time for writing in our journals and eating dinner.  We hit the hay early and prepare for another beautiful day in paradise.

Leaving Kona, Coffee Mill, Painted Church & more

We are trying to get out of our condo around 10:00 to hit the road for the Hilo side.  We have opted to take the southerns route which is not the shortest, but has some sites we have yet to see.  Annie and I head out early to Walmart to purchase some staple items we may need for the next few days and return to the condo to get packed to leave.  It is a miracle that everything fits in our car with any visibility out the back - but it does! We head down the highway and hope to stop at a coffee mill to get a better understanding of how coffee is made.  When we get there, the kids have a fit.  "We don't even like coffee"  they all chime in.  "This is a learning experience and counts toward your grade"  we explain.  Drudgingly, they all go into the shop.  It turns out that this is a farmers cooperative and it has a host of wonderful, home-grown products including coffee, macadamia nuts and local, tropical fruits.  It is a self-guided tour and once you are finished there is a path through the tropical gardens with fruit trees and bushes from all parts of the tropics.  Many of the plants or seedlings were brought to the islands by immigrant farmers that came to work on the sugarcane fields.  We enjoy an ice cream before departing for the painted church - a small, island church that has a wonderful interior that is painted from head to toe.  It is a short drive to the church - ice cream isn't even gone yet - and we get out for a brief look inside. 
The Painted Church- Saint Benedicts
Once back in the car, we head south toward the southernmost point in the USA and also the green sands beach. There are only two green sand beaches in the world.  One is here and the other one is in Guam.  After a rather bumpy ride past lone stands of farmland, pastures, cows, windswept trees and old, rusty wind farms, we arrive at a parking place along a steep hill.  We walk to the bottom of the hill expecting that around the corner we will be awarded with our view of the Green Sand Beach, but alas, we find out that the beach is a hike of about 3 miles in over some pretty treacherous terrain.  Oh well, one chance to see it, right?  We trudge onward through the windy, dusty, rocky, steep paths in hopes of discovering something that not everyone gets to see.  After an hour of hiking, we stop at a very tall cliff and see around our feet some green sand.  It is actually the breakdown of Olivine which is commonly known as peridot.  Imagine that, a beach made up of semi-precious stones all ground into fine sand.  Weird and Wonderful.  As we glance at our watch and see that it is 3:30 and we were supposed to be at our destination at 3:00 and know that we have another hour of hiking to get out.....well, we mostly agree, that this green sand is what we really came to see.  I collect a sample (proof, right?) and off we go back across the very rocky, dusty, windy turf to our car.  At this point, I decide that we should engage the "emergency" telephone to call our appointment in Hilo to tell him we are running late.    Wouldn't  you know that the battery was dead.  Good thing this wasnt' a real emergency.  We get back in the car and retrace our "off the beaten path" steps to get back on the highway toward our final destination.  We come upon a small country store and stop to ask if there is a pay phone there.  The nice lady lets us use her phone to call.....wait for it....Winston Churchill (our contact on Hilo).  Winston assures us he will be here when we arrive to give us the keys....aside from that...he is a little sparse on the details of how to get to where we are supposed to go.  We soon path through Volcano National Park where you can clearly see, off in the distance the plume of smoke from the active volcano spewing lava and giving birth to new island land.  After about an hour, we turn off onto the know road to our house when all of a sudden there is a fork in the road. HUH?  By now, it is pitch black outside. Paulie decides to go right which seems like the path to the water and we soon find our street, wind through a dark neighborhood and come upon a wonderful house with lights on.  Winston Churchill is there waiting for us with his dog, Coco.  The house if fabulous, lots of wood, cathedral ceiling, breezes passing through the screened windows and door, wind chimes and birds all chirping outside.  It feels like we are in the middle of a botanical garden.  We gulp down some burgers and off to bed.  Our feet are killing us and we are bone weary.  Good night.

Seahorse Farm

Leafy Sea Dragon
s Today we opted for a little Science Class as we visited the one and only Seahorse Research Facility in the world.  This was started by a woman named Carol who moved here 20 years ago.  Every year over 50 million sea creatures and fish are removed from the ocean for either human consumption in the form of food or medicine or for more recreational uses like in aquariums.  Since we humans are not very good at recreating nature, the pretty recreational aquarium creatures die very quickly and must be replaced thus continuing a cycle that is depleting our oceans.  By the year 2040, with nearly 9 billion people on this planet, our oceans will be devoid of fish.  So....these people have decided to do something about it one species at a time.  They have devised a most interesting method for propagating seahorses to eventually release into the wild.  At present, this farm supplies the aquarium industry.  They have re-established some species, such as the leafy dragon seahorse that is native to the southern tip of Australia. They have four of them and they are almost at an age where they can begin to reproduce.  Interestingly, it is the male that nutures the eggs and eventually goes into labor hatching nearly 600 eggs each and every month.  He has about two minutes of rest before he packs on another 600 eggs that will need incubation for another month.  Currently, seahorses have a 1 in 1000 chance of survival in the wild.  Not very good odds.  At this facility, seahorses have a 50% survival rate.  We spent a lot to time speaking with the Biologist that gave us the tour of the facility to better understand the incredible work they are doing at this facility.

We finished up our tour and headed back into town.  As this is our last full day in Kona, we re-visit some shops where the kids want to go and take a very leisurely path back to the condo.  Once there, we enjoy lounging by the pool before heading upstairs to eat all of our food stocks in advance of our departure tomorrow.

Beaches and Towns

There is a high surf advisory that has everyone a little giddy here.  I guess the surfer life depends on waves rolling in and out - literally!  We drive out to where we had understood we could see the big wave breaks and subsequently tons of surfers, but we must have misunderstood the directions.  However, we did find a nice spot from which to take photos of the waves crashing up against the rocks.  So this kids posed there for these dramatic photos.

Since we were close by, we stopped by the research center for Seahorses and discussed returning in the morning for a tour on research they are doing to preserve this unique and mysterious creature.  (Science lesson #2!) We continue up the coast to a closer beach called:  'Anaeho'omalu Bay - try saying that three times fast! This is a lovely spot.  Plenty of palm trees to shade the sandy beach.  Softly rolling surf that makes that wonderful, lilting water sound.  I'm ready for a nap, but of course the kids think this is the most boring place they have ever seen (bummer). I force them to sit down and relax for a while....doing nothing has its advantages.
'Anaeho'omalu Bay
We can only hold out for so long and the kids, in their infinite wisdom, have decided the best way to get us to leave is to cry HUNGER.  What parent can deny their child food when clearly they are on the verge of starving to death.  We pack up and decide to explore a inland town called Waikoloa that we have yet to see.  We drive up the hill and into the desert like scenery - quite a contrast to the topical environment we are leaving.  We find a small center that has a market and we pick up sandwiches and Chinese food for a picnic lunch.  After lunch we head back toward Kona when we spot an unmarked turn off down to a beach with some pretty big wave action.  This is an unmarked and unpaved road and you literally feel like you are inside a game of bumper cars or pinball as we bounce our way down the bumpy road.  When we get to a place to park, we see we are not the only ones with this idea.  Evidently, this must be the place to go to surf or watch surfers on a day like this one.  We park and make our way down a pathway to an outlook that is shady and rocky with large chunks of black lava.  There are a number of surfers way out on the horizon that we watch.  What a rush to see them come barreling down these huge waves.  Amazing!


Lava Fields from 1801 Eruption
Kids among the Banyan Tree - Kekaha Kai State Park- January 4, 2012
After we tire of the surfing drama, we get back in the car for an encore performance of bumper cars as we return to the smoothly paved highway and back to our condo. 


Whale Watching Tour & Hawaiian Culture

We ventured out mid-morning and poked around the shops in Kona before our scheduled whale-watching tour.  The kids were able to find several things to spend their money on :D  We had locally made ice-cream (which was thoroughly yummy) and found any number of unique and interesting objects. Around noon, we walked over to the pier where we were to wait for our boat, "Body Glove".  We formed at line and waited for the boat to dock, get cleaned and restocked and aboard we went.  We found a bench with table under the awning.  Since it looks like there might be a threat of rain, we figure this is a good spot.  We head out and immediately see a school (or more precisely, a pod) of dolphins jumping in the waves in front of our massive boat.  We had a biologist/naturalist on board who gave us a ton of information about whales as follows:

  • Whales migrate from Alaska to mate and give birth in the warm Hawaiian waters.
  • They spend roughly 5 months in Hawaii starting in December and leave in April.
  • It takes around a month for the whales to travel from Alaska to Hawaii and another month to return.  They travel around 100 miles per day.
  • Pregnant whales will give birth during the first two months in Hawaii so their young can grow before the long, arduous return trip to Alaska.
  •  There is no food source for whales in Hawaii.  Newborn whales will exist solely on their mother's milk and will gain around 100lbs. per day.
  • A female whale weighs around 90,000lbs when fully grown. She will lose around 30,000lbs while feeding her newborn.
  • Humpback whales have no teeth and will choke on objects larger than a grapefruit.
  • Their eye is around the size of a large orange; their lungs are the size of a stretch limosine and their bodies are roughly the size of a tractor trailer.
  •  Whales breathe out of their nostril(s) which are located on the top of their head.
  • A whale exhales roughly 90% of the air in their lungs which blows water high into the air. (Compared to a human which only exhales about 15% of the air in our lungs)
  • Female Humpback whales are larger than males by nearly 20%.
  • A mother whale will return to Hawaii when the young whale is just over a year old and that is the last a baby whale see of his/her mother.

We finally come upon a mother whale and her newborn calf in the water and follow them for the better part of an hour.  They rise up and out of the water very rhythmically, blowing water through their spouts.  We follow them for about an hour and a half before returning to shore.  That was amazing and what a learning experience.

We stroll back to a few shops where Hudson's purchases some shoes and a tank top before returning to the condo.  Back at the condo, we are treated to an "Aloha Party" by the pool.  We are greeted with a fresh flower lei and a sampling of local style food.  We are also treated to a "keiki halau" or hula instructor who has young hula dancers perform the history of hula as told through song and dance.  It is really amazing and another learning experience.  We are told about the history of hula and the monarchy that ruled the Hawaiian Islands for 8 generations beginning with King Kamehameha the great.  He united the islands under a single ruler.  The last monarch of Hawaii was a Queen, who assumed the throne in 1891 as the U.S. was beginning to annex the islands.   Queen Liliuokalani traveled to Washington to meet with the President to ask that the Hawaiian Islands remain independent.  While she was away, her people were very sad and created new Hula's in her name.  She ruled until 1893 when the U.S. took over the government of Hawaii. We also learned a bit of Hawaiian language from her.  There are 5 vowels and 7 consonants that make up the language.  Vowels are a,e,i,o,u and Consonants are H, K, L, M, N, P, W and then a host of grammatical marks that change the way words are pronounced.  Here is a little Hawaiian vocabulary:

  • Wahine = woman
  • Kane = man
  • Wikiwiki = hurry up
  • Mahalo = thank you
  • Aloha = hello, goodbye
  • Ohana = family
  • Pupu = appetizer, snack
  • Paniolo = Hawaiian cowboy
  • Kona = leeward side of the island
  • Hale = house
Enough Schooling for now.  This was a very interesting day.

Can You Say "Hapuna"?


Hapuna Beach
We awoke early, had a nice breakfast and ventured out with a gameplan.  We were headed to the beach.  Not just any beach, but one of the world's top10 beaches!  That would be Hapuna Beach.  Up the Kohala coast we drove for about 45 minutes ("Are we there yet?") and we turned off road to a gravel path leading to ample parking.  Wow!  This is what we have been waiting for.  A beautiful, sandy beach with rolling waves, palm trees gently blowing in the wind, picnic tables, shower facilities and a snack bar.  We may never leave!  We planted ourselves on our stretch of sand and headed into the waves.  Now I feel like I'm on vacation.  We slathered our wintery, pale skin with sunscreen and enjoyed the warmth of the sun and seawater.  The boys enjoyed  boogey-boarding along the surf. 
Waveriders #2 - Hapuna Beach
Waveriders #1 -Hapuna Beach
There were some really nice waves and they got some awesome rides. The sun proves to be a bit much for an extended day at the beach.   Once we started to feel the heat on our skins and the rumble in our tummies, we headed a little farther north toward the hill-top town of Waimea.  At first, you ascend some pretty steep, arid hills that eventually give way to more verdant pastures.  This is a really sweet town.  We locate a food court that offers something for every taste and enjoy a casual lunch.  Afterward, we head back to Kona and the kids look positively zombie-like in the back seat.  I think its naptime!!  We drop the sleepy heads off at the hotel and get a little shopping done before returning for the evening.  We join a local band by the pool for snacks and then retire early.

FYI - Trip Itinerary

For those who have inquired about our itinerary, here it is.....

Hawaii - December 27 - January 10
Fiji - January 11 - January 19
New Zealand - January 19 - February 15
Australia - February 15 - March 5
Singapore - March 5 - 15
Thailand - March 15 - May 1
Hong Kong - May 1 - May 8
Beijing - May 8 - May 18
Greece - May 18 - ???


We plan to wing it from here, probably will visit Turkey then Switzerland and thereafter.....